‘Ten steps backwards’: Return of super thin models concern fashion experts

The fashion industry appears to be reversing its progress on size inclusivity, according to recent observations from industry experts. A new report from Vogue Business analysing spring/summer '25 collections reveals concerning statistics.

According to The Guardian, among 8,763 looks across 208 womenswear shows, the vast majority (94.9 per cent) featured straight-size models (US 0-4/UK 4-8). Plus-size models (UK 18+) represented just 0.8 per cent, while mid-size models (UK 10-16) accounted for 4.3 per cent. Milan's shows were particularly uniform, with 98 per cent straight-size models, though some diversity statistics were inflated by muscular male models in co-ed shows.

Undoing the progress 

"It feels like we've taken ten steps backwards," said Anna Shillinglaw, the founder of the model agency Milk Management, as stated by the media outlet. 

While thin models have historically dominated runways, recent years have shown progress toward inclusivity. Remarkable appearances included Jill Kortleve's groundbreaking Chanel appearance in 2000 and British Vogue's April 2023 cover featuring plus-size models. However, the industry seems to be retreating in this direction.

Body diversity 

"I now feel that some of the higher-end designers looked at curvier women more as a fad in fashion rather than something that is real life," Shillinglaw noted, pointing out that Britain's average dress size is 16. 

While Chanel maintained some body diversity this season, other luxury brands did not, leaving emerging designers like Karoline Vitto and Ester Manas to champion inclusivity. 

London-based casting director Chloe Rosolek found this trend puzzling, saying, "It's so strange to just pretend that a whole group of people don't exist." 

Has the trend returned? 

The trend coincides with an increased focus on thinness, partly driven by weight-loss drugs like Ozempic. According to Rosolek, "There's been a decrease in size across the board and that includes already straight-size models... A lot of models that used to be plus-size are now mid-size." 

Many steps backwards 

Despite major fashion brands’ 2017 charter banning size zero and under-16 models, recent shows featured very young, extremely thin models. Emily McGrail, a 21-year-old model, shared her Milan experience, "I looked around at the other models and I just felt like I didn't deserve to be there... In comparison, I felt 'fat'. Technically, for my height and age, I would be considered underweight but looking around at these girls, I did feel big." 

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Former casting director James Scully concluded, "We've gone back to the way things were 10 years ago. These models are just serving a purpose. They're not here to bring any kind of character or joy or sell anything. They're back to being a clothes hanger."