Interview: Fashion designer Rahul Mishra on dressing celebs like Zendaya at NMACC and Paris Fashion Week

Rahul Mishra is the first Indian designer to be invited to showcase his work at Haute Couture Week in Paris. He is also the first Indian fashion designer to have won the Woolmark Prize in Milan in 2014. Mishra’s timeless pieces also gained significant attention during the “India in fashion” inaugural exhibit at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Center. Some of his work looks like art itself and is designed by seeking inspiration from marine life, Himalayan forests and abundance in nature. In this interview, WION catches up with Rahul Mishra to understand his inspiration, international celebrities wearing his outfits, creator’s block and his vision for the future.

1. Quite a few of your designs displayed at the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre are inspired by marine life. What has shaped your love for the underwater?

A few years ago, prior to the onset of the Covid pandemic, I had the opportunity to explore the Indian Ocean and witness its mesmerizing coral reefs. The experience was truly transformative for me, as it was my first glimpse into the breathtaking beauty beneath the water's surface. Witnessing the richness that exists underwater left an indelible impression.

I believe that everything around us, beneath us, and within us is interconnected as part of nature. The sublime beauty of nature, in all its forms, has consistently served as a source of inspiration throughout my creative journey. The exploration of water, in particular, has been a profound inspiring moment.

2. In 2023, you were conferred the Chevalier de l'Ordre des Arts et des Lettres. What has your connection with France been like?

It's been a decade since we started showcasing in Paris, a city that has significantly influenced my work. Sharing the stage with some of the world's best brands in Paris has not only boosted my confidence but has also contributed to the growth and visibility of the brand. Personally, it has been enriching, and the city's artistic heritage, including French painters like Henry Russo and Claude Monet, has inspired my creations.

Paris is the ultimate platform for any fashion designer, and we consider ourselves privileged to have established a strong bond with France. The award is an honor to our commitment to our artisans, workers, and everyone associated with our brand.

3. From Zendaya to Selena, various international and national celebrities have worn your outfits. What do you think it is about your designs and work that resonates with a global audience?

Maintaining my Indian identity is crucial, and our designs reflect that while being easily translatable to global tastes. This balance is where our commercial success lies. Icons like Zendaya, Selena Gomez, and Gigi Hadid wearing our creations show their appreciation for the Indian aesthetic embedded in our work. It's about creating a unique identity rooted in Indian culture yet global in narrative and thought process. 

4. What does couture mean to you? Is couture only restricted to celebrities? How can couture be more inclusive?

Couture, to me, transcends celebrity adornment; it's about crafting an artistic narrative. We strive to create pieces that convey a powerful message, extending beyond red carpet moments. Our focus is on building a strong artistic expression that collaboratively involves various communities in our country — tailors, artisans, embroiderers. Together, we co-created moments for Paris Haute Couture Week. Our primary purpose is to communicate the underlying message we passionately believe in. If, in the aftermath of our design process, a celebrity appreciates the piece or a client finds it wearable, it becomes a part of our design philosophy.

5. You use a lot of elements of nature in your designs. What has your connection with nature been like? Any places that have specifically inspired you?

Nature, for me, isn't confined to a specific place; it's omnipresent. Every collection draws inspiration from our surroundings — mundane forms of nature whether it's the stars, the depths of water, or a leaf unfolding in a planter. Nature's abundance is present in every nook and corner around us, making it a profound source of inspiration. It's a divine gift by god that can consistently fuel anybody’s creativity. Beyond nature, man-made forms like buildings and geometric structures have also been inspirational in my work.

6. Do you ever experience moments of low inspiration for creating designs or do you experience creator's block? How do you find inspiration again? What is the process like?

Every season, we begin on a creative journey from ground zero. It's the beauty of creating something new — no preconceived ideas, no set thought processes. We explore 2-3 concepts simultaneously, fleshing out the ideas until we streamline them into one powerful theme that guides our entire creative process. Sometimes, we encounter creative blocks, especially when starting from scratch. The challenge lies in not knowing where or how to begin. There are instances when powerful ideas emerge, but internal conviction is lacking. In a nutshell, the process is very organic, driven by multiple ideas but constrained by time.

7.What is your dream fashion showcase like?

My dream fashion showcase is currently taking shape with some intriguing concepts. For the upcoming Haute Couture Week in Paris, we're exploring the realm of the intangible, something never seen before. The challenge lies in how we represent this inspiration. Perfecting the creation process becomes utmost important to justify the intangibility of the source.