Explained: Whose saree is it anyway? Bangladesh cries foul as West Bengal claims Tangail saree as its own
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Tangail saris, known for their unique handwoven techniques, designs, and motifs, have been traditionally produced in the Tangail district of Bangladesh. The saree originated in the late 1800s. The West Bengal government has claimed it as its own after it got a GI tag for it.
Tangail saris, known for their unique handwoven techniques, designs, and motifs, have been traditionally produced in the Tangail district of Bangladesh. The saree originated in the late 1800s. The West Bengal government has claimed it as its own after it got a GI tag for it.
There is a war brewing between Bangladesh and the east Indian state of West Bengal. While the two states got divided back in 1947- with Bangladesh becoming predominantly a Muslim state and called East Pakistan and subsequently Bangladesh in 1971, the war this time is not over religion or ethnicity but over a saree- the six-yard garment worn by women in several parts of South-Asia. In January earlier this year, West Bengal Chief Minister Mamata Banerjee announced that the GI (geographical indication) tag for Tangail saree has been awarded to West Bengal.
Taking to X, Mamata Banerjee wrote, "Three handloom saree items of West Bengal, namely Tangail of Nadia and Purba Bardhaman, and Korial & Garad of Murshidabad and Birbhum, have been registered and recognized as GI products. I congratulate the artisans for their skills and achievements. We are proud of them. Our congratulations to them!!"
Three handloom saree items of West Bengal, namely Tangail of Nadia and Purba Bardhaman, and Korial & Garad of Murshidabad and Birbhum, have been registered and recognized as GI products.
— Mamata Banerjee (@MamataOfficial) January 4, 2024
I congratulate the artisans for their skills and achievements. We are proud of them. Our…
Since Banerjee's post, there has been a debate going on on social media, with Bengalis from both sides of the border claiming the versatile Tangail saree as its own.
Reactions on GI tag for Tangail saree
Netizens from both India and Bangladesh have reacted to the GI tag and commented on Banerjee's post.
Most Indian rejoiced and celebrated the honour. "A moment of pride indeed!," wrote one. Another congratulated the CM and said, "This is excellent news which will give huge boost to the textile industry and weavers of Bengal. Another feather in the cap exemplifying the great work being done by the Bengal Govt under the dynamic leadership of our beloved CM."
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While some questioned the origin of the saree. "But isn’t Tangail from Bangladesh?" asked one user. "You should be ashamed of your cheating.Tangail was famous for it's handloom sarees since the British Raj and even today Tangail which is a district of Bangladesh produces finest sarees. You are shameless," wrote another.
Why Bangladesh is calling the Tangail saree as its own?
Many have argued that the traditional hand-woven saree borrows its name from its place of origin Tangail, a district in Bangladesh. However, West Bengal has claimed that the saree originated and is weaved in the Purba Bardhaman & Nadia districts of the state.
When the GI tag was allocated to West Bengal, many in Bangladesh reacted strongly. Speaking to a daily, fashion designer, researcher, and President of the National Crafts Council of Bangladesh (NCCB), Chandra Shekhar Saha, remarked, "There is no doubt that Tangail district is situated in Bangladesh. So, we have a strong claim over Tangail saris. It is a matter of great regret that India has received the GI tag, but all is not lost yet and we can still get the GI tag."
Tangail saris, known for their unique handwoven techniques, designs, and motifs, have been traditionally produced in the Tangail district of Bangladesh. The saree originated in the late 1800s. It is unique due to its handwoven techniques, designs, and motifs and is worn by millions of women across the world.
Many claim that artisans have been weaving cotton sarees for generations. Tangails are also known as Tant sarees- or Bengali cotton sarees. Some in Bangladesh claim that many years back, artisans moved to Tangail district as the weather was best suitable for weaving such sarees. The place then gave the name to sarees.
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Bangladeshis also claim that West Bengal's Purba Bardhaman and Nadia districts have been producing the Tangail sarees but it has not originated in these areas.
Bangladesh PM Sheikh Hasina endorsing Tangail saree
Ever since the news of West Bengal being awarded the GI tag for Tangail saree came to light, Bangladesh has been trying to claim it as its own. The country's Prime Minister, Sheikh Hasina has been seen wearing only Tangail sarees for all her public outings in the recent past.
“For the last couple of days, I wore a Tangail saree to show that it is ours. No one else can take it," she said.
The prime minister referred to the controversy during a press conference on the outcomes of her recent three-day visit to Munich in Germany to attend the Munich Security Conference 2024.
West Bengal's Tagail is different
According to Journal No. 178 published by the Chennai-based office of Geographical Indication, the West Bengal's Tangail saree is different from its Bangladeshi counterpart- hence explaining the GI tag. The Indian tangail is a fusion of Tangail and Shanitipur weaves- which is typically made in Nadia and Purba Bardhaman districts.
Dhaka can approach the World Trade Organization (WTO) to complain of alleged violation of intellectual property rights and seek redressal over the GI tag. So far there has been an outrage in the country over the six yard garmet but no offiical word if they have already approached WTO.
